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The Theory of Skin Care

There is no magic wand which will help get rid of all inperfections immediately, but you can improve your skin a lot using portable devices.

First of all the principle of fighting age signs is to choose the right target. There are two huge weak points - slow skin cell regeneration and thickening of the top skin layer. Let me explain how the skin works.

Our skin looks as key lime pie does.


TOP-EPIDERMIS
The top layer, called the epidermis, isn’t very thick. The epidermis is what is actually visible. At the bottom of this layer sit basal cells. They lay in the nourishing intercellular “soup” delivered to them by our capillary system.

Those cells, as every living creature, produce some sort of solution through metabolism which flushes away by sewage – lymphatic system. These basal cells divide all the time, letting one cell to travel up to the surface and the other one remains for future reproduction.

The cell’s journey to the skins surface takes approximately 28 days. Travelling cell undergoes some drastic changes while getting further and further from home. It changes from a living one to a dead one with a hard shell – keranocite.

These hard flat cells are the very top protective layer of our skin. Eventually they fall off and are washed away during our usual skin care routine.

As the cell travels it changes from a puffy square to a hard flat one. When you look at the skin through a microscope you can see the distinctive layers of different shaped cells. Normally these layers have a certain thickness according to the time needed for the cells to pass each changing stage.

With age this process changes and the layers of the cells are no longer even. The bottom layers of living cells gets thinner and the top layer of dead cells gets thicker.

This abnormality causes the aged look of our skin. Thick top layers begin to fold which we see as wrinkles.




MIDDLE-DERMIS
The middle layer of our skin-pie is the dermis. This layer is much thicker because it houses all capillaries, the lymphatic system, sebaceous glands, hair follicles, nerves , etc. This layer is reinforced with collagen and elastin fibers.
The cells which are responsible for this fiber production are called fibroblasts. The production cycle of the collagen fiber is about 15 days (T1/2).

Everyone has heard about collagen and how important it is for our skin. The main function of collagen is to create a strong, flexible frame which is the “floor” for the upper layer. When it is firm and stretched flat is gives a young, smooth appearance to our skin.

But unfortunately with age the collagen production drops.

Not only does the collagen production slows down but the percentage of old collagen continues to increase.

Normally collagen which has grown older and lost its flexibility gets destroyed by “wiper” – ferment collagenaza.

This ferment recognizes and recycles old collagen fibers, breaks them to amino-acids and then redirects it a building material to where it needed. With age collagen fibers undergo changes that make them unrecognizable for the “wiper”.

So we have more and more these “leftovers” which are not replaced by new collagen. Add together slower collagen production, this makes the most important part of the collagen carcase – the top flexible membrane to sag at weak points. And those are where the skin folds (wrinkles) have been created.



LOWER-HYPODERMIS
And finally the bottom layer of our pie, the crust, is the gypodermis. It is formed by fat cells – our storage supplies. This layer varies over our entire body. You can see the “extra cells” over certain parts of the body such as our hips, belly, etc…we know these areas well - they are prone to cellulite, which is caused by changes in this specific layer.

So, let’s look around again and point out the problems.


Rule number ONE – Exfoliate

Looking at the very top we see the thick dead cell layer which looks exactly like a junk yard, where old cars discarded one on top of the other.
Old cells, glued together, form an uneven layer which isn’t able to reflect light – what we see is skin that is gray, dull and lacking natural glow.

There are temporary remedies such as filling the hollows between cells. Creams with a substance such as lipids(oil), applied to the skin will let the surface reflect light much better. That is why the skin looks much smoother and fresher after we’ve applied these creams.

The other decorative method is to apply decorative cosmetics which simply consists of reflecting particles.

Does this sound familiar? Yes, it should. It’s like painting directly over an old car without removing the rust first.


Rule number TWO – Exercise

As we look deeper into the skin we notice the other problem.

The quality of basal cell’s life (and reproduction) depends on two important factors – the delivery of nutrients and the proper removal of waste.

Building material for new cells (proteins, amino acids, macro and micro elements and others) are mainly delivered by the capillary system. These tiny capillaries are vital to our skin proper function but unfortunately they are too easy to destroy. What affects them most are smoking, excessive alcohol consumption and lack of exercise.

Another important factor is the removal of those end, or waste, products. Our lymphatic system is responsible for this significant mission. As toxic waste can damage our environment in the world around us, it has the same effects on our inner-world – it poisons our bodies.

Because of certain life-styles, environmental problems and bad eating habits, the amount of waste becomes too much for the lymphatic system to handle. It becomes clogged. Imagine what would happen if the drainage in your house failed?

This is why stimulating massages are so important. They increase blood and lymph flow, which then helps to restore normal circulation and prevents stagnation.


Rule number THREE – Nourish

Still another problem which may affect the natural skin rejuvenation process is the lack of building materials.

All nutrients whether they come from food or additional supplements are first used by our vital organs. If it is not enough for entire body, then our system cuts out skin nutrition fist.

That is why a balanced diet is so important for our appearance.

Along with a well balanced diet the use of nourishing skin care products is a must. These products supply the necessary components directly to skin cells.

This is why it is so important to use active concentrates and other skin care products


Rule number FOUR – Stimulate.

As we age, the speed in which our cells divide slows. This decrease depends on many factors, one of them (and probably most important) is low level of growth factor substances in the blood and intercellular liquids.

This is a normal process that together with photo aging and the natural oxidation causes irreversible changes in the skin structure.

There are many methods to stimulate cells and make them work as though they were in a “younger” mode. Biochemistry.and.physiotherapy are the main resources for such a solution.


Rule number FIVE – Hydrate and Protect.

The skins appearance depends upon the look of the skin’s top layer which is no more than a layer of flat scales or keranocyte. They are “glued” together with lipid membranes. Each scales length is approx. 10mMk , width 0.07-10mMk.

1. Corneocytes
2. Intercellular space, filled with skin lipids

There are many micro-channels in between these cells that ensure the “breathing” (2-5% of the daily dose of the gas exchange is provided by skin).

Along with the skins exchange of carbon dioxide and oxygen (breathing of the skin) there is also the process of water evaporation within the intercellular liquid commonly known as “dehydration”. That is why it is important to seal in the skins normal moisture content. But at the same time this "seal" should allow skin to breathe.

So, the final task of skin care routine is to introduce cosmetics consisting of hyaluronic acid, collagen and other effective hydrating components which do not create heavy non-breathable membrane, and protect from UV-UA radiation.


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